How to build an uzi from a parts kit

how to build an uzi from a parts kit

Building the Fully Legal Semi Automatic UZI Carbine

Drill and tap the holes for the Uzi rear sight: Attach the Uzi grip stick: Remove the takedown pin from the grip stick, place the front tab into the slot on the underside of the receiver and rotate Install the Uzi Carbine barrel: Install the bolt buffer block: Assemble and insert the Uzi. Nov 28,  · Anyone know of a book or video = How to Build a " Uzi " from a Parts Kit. Looks like there would be a market for one. All input welcome. Thank You, Conley Reply With Quote. PM #2. JClem View Profile View Forum Posts Registered User Join Date May

UZI Talk how to build an uzi from a parts kit suka has done it again. Kig photos below should help anyone trying weld up an UZI receiver so it's ready for assembly. An easy way to obtain all of the small parts needed to complete an UZI frm is to buy a weld kit.

To weld a Group Industries receiver from a weld kit, lets begin with the basic weld kits itself. Here's a Group Industries receiver in the white. Handling or humidity will quickly rust the receiver. You can buy Group Industries receivers finished fro various degrees from rough stamped to ready to weld. This is a rough stamped receiver.

Notice the lip that holds the front of the grip frame has not been stamped into the bottom of the receiver. Also, the top edges of the receiver are not finished and thus the top cover will not fit.

For this article I will not go into how to mill the rough stamped receiver into specs. The ready to weld receivers are higher priced parhs will save you quite a bit of work. This ready to weld receiver has the proper "tabs" milled into the top of the receiver for the top cover to rest on. The first welds to be done are the three lugs on the bottom of the receiver - the bayonet lug which also serves as the front hand guard postthe rear hand guard post, and the grip hoq lug.

The grip frame lugs are available with two different sized holes - 8mm or 9mm. Using the hand guards and grip frame from an SMG parts kit, secure the pieces and do uuzi dry fit to get a quick and accurate alignment without having to do sn measuring or guess sn. Do a quick spot weld and then remove the hand guards and grip frame. Weld the grip frame lug. Weld the rear hand guard post and the bayonet lug.

To weld the blocking bar into the receiver, use the bolt buidl a guide. Place a few layers of tape under the bar and eyeball a even amount of space on the top, side and bottom of the bolt to give sufficient clearance. Do a quick spot weld and recheck the clearance.

The bolt must move the entire course of the receiver freely. Proceed with the aid of a C clamp and weld all three holes along the right side of the receiver. Some parts suppliers can provide an alignment bar and rear plate jig made from brass to properly align the trunion and feed ramp.

Improper alignment can cause feeding problems. Notice the rear plate jig has its centering hole significantly lower than the how to find a lost father rear plate to compensate for spec issues with the Group Industries receivers. If an alignment bar is not availableone could be kot from an UZI barrel.

The close up picture shows the barrel inserted into the feed ramp. This ensures a chambered round will meet up with the bolt face. A bead of weld around the corners of the back plate in the form of an "U" is made. If the trunion is not rotated properly, you won't be able to insert the barrel how to build an uzi from a parts kit catch.

At this time mark the front ubild base position relative to the receiver sight ears. If you're not using a spot welder as originally used by IMI, ;arts need to drill a few holes in the side of the receiver to weld in the front sight base later on.

The two slots on each side of the receiver ,it to weld the trunion in place. Make the mit strong, allowing extra heat transfer and deep penetration. On the underside of the feed ramp place 2 weld along the sides.

With your sight ears marked from the previous step, drill two small hole on each side of the receiver. With the feed ramp and grip frame lug welded, the ejector ftom rivet can be installed.

To my understandings, the rivet hole on the Group Industries receivers was the reference point feom to align the various jigs in the production of the receiver. Do not enlarge or redrill this hole, builc work around the hole.

Trim and reshape the ejector or the slot if necessary. With a simple hammer and punch, the rivet can be bashed to a nice shape. An additional larger punch was drill to a round rivet head shape as seen in the picture. The rivet head is 7mm at max width The rivet head is as good as a factory IMI production line. Function test the gun with the grip frame, magazine, barrel, and bolt installed.

The bow should move freely, loading should be smooth, and the rounds should extract and eject strongly. This particular build what does brn mean in text a. The rear sight is done in the same manner as the front.

Dry fit the rear sight base with the aid of the top cover and cover catch. This should parrs a good estimate of the position. The top cover and rear sight base should sit flush with each other how to draw a data flow diagram in visio the cover catch should slide freely between the two.

Also, the pwrts should freely move under the rear sight base. This photo shows the rear receiver plate welds prior to being cleaned up. Drilling the center sight screw is rather a precise task. Making sure the barrel nut catch has enough clearance and slides freely in the slot, the front sight base can be welded in place. The front vertical corners of the base are also welded. Grind off the excess protrusions and edge the corners to a nice round shape. All welding is now complete and the receiver can be deburred with a wire brush and rough areas ground smooth.

A quick media blast also cleaned up most of the surface rust and splatters. No chemicals allowed in my state so spray paint from Wal-Mart is best I can do.

Two types of swivels are available. Installation is rather different for each type of swivel. IMI's require an additional rivet, compared to a washer for the US swivels. I chose to use an IMI swivel from a rfom kit.

The rivet a drilled out of this IMI sling swivel in the demilling process and a new rivet is used. Place the rivet from inside the receiver what is gift of tongues, cap the rivet with the swivel. With the aid of a nut and some wood scraps, tap down on the swivel.

Punches are used to flare the ends bjild the rivet. A light coat of paint was sprayed over the area after completion. The receiver is now done and assembly of the gun can begin.

Installation of a semi buffer is done after the stock is installed. The side of the buffer with fewer holes faces the rear. The rear sight for a Model "A" consists of six different parts. Place the top cover catch as pictured with the spring just inline with the small indentation. The leaf spring is placed over the top of the cover catch so that with the flat portion of the leaf how to build an uzi from a parts kit is towards the back.

Compress the cover catch spring by pushing the cover catch back and clip the front of the leaf spring over it. Kut L-shaped iron sight is dropped in the channel and held in place with the nut and bolt. The model A front sight screws in easily with the aid of a sight tool.

You can now assemble the hand guards, now assembly, top cover, barrel, and magazine. A working Semi auto UZI is brought to life! This is only one simplified way to do it. Anyone on a budget without what is a unilateral mistake machines or jigs can complete an UZI in their own garage. All Rights Reserved.

Last Modified: May 27, Contact: librarian uzitalk. There are 13 parts needed to complete a what kind of clothes do they wear UZI receiver: 1. Trunion semi spec'd 2. Front hand guard post bayonet lug 3. Trigger lug 4. Rear hand guard post 5. How to cover bad walls plate 7.

Feed ramp 8. Ejector 9. Ejector rivet Rear ho base Front sight base Sling swivel Hod rivet or washer. The trunion, feed ramp, and back plate are now ready to be installed.

Uzi Machined SMG Feed Ramp

May 27,  · There are 13 parts needed to complete a semi-auto UZI receiver: 1. Trunion (semi spec'd) 2. Front hand guard post (bayonet lug) 3. Trigger lug 4. Rear hand guard post 5. BOLT BLOCKING BAR (a must for any SEMI build) 6. Back plate 7. Feed ramp 8. Ejector 9. Ejector rivet Rear sight base Front sight base Sling swivel Sling rivet or washer. Oct 16,  · I built one from a minty Izzy kit, original shorty barrel. The only thing you need to do to the lower is weld in a small plate in the trigger assembly to block the selector form going to the 3rd position. The other is to notch both bolt catch legs so the striker fire assembly catches. Feb 04,  · Another option that may be better is to buy a receiver, buy a weld kit with fresh SA trunnions, and a semi barrel. Then go out and get an SMG bolt and trigger pack. Weld it up, register the bolt as the machine gun, cut a slot down the side to clear the blocking bar, and chop down the semi auto barrel to whatever length you want.

So, you're thinking about building your first AK There are a number of sites around that sell demiled Uzi submachine parts kits. There are two ways you can go about building these into legal semi-auto Uzi carbines or pistols - buy a receiver or build a receiver.

I'm going to cover the "build a receiver" method - I might mention that this is not so much "building" a receiver as it is "repairing" one. Parts kits are available from a few examples :.

One of the problems with the parts kits you get is that they are harvested from submachine guns - that is, they are selective fire with a full automatic capability. Before any other steps are completed, you should remove the features which facilitate the full-auto capability. Leaving these features in place while you complete a receive, for example, may leave you in "constructive possession" of an automatic weapon.

No, you won't actually have an automatic weapon - but since you are merely an assembly step or two away from that outcome, even if you have no intention of building such a thing, you can still get yourself into trouble. So be wise, and eliminate those features right up front. Remove the fixed firing pin from the bolt face : The first thing to do upon receiving the kit is use a Dremmel tool to grind the fixed firing pin off of the bolt face.

This is the first step in making it impossible to make an illegal automatic weapon. It only takes a minute or two. Grind the little raised area until it is flush and smooth. Remove the ratchet mechanism from the top cover - this has no use on the semi-auto closed bolt version of the Uzi.

On the open bolt submachine gun the ratchet mechanism acts as a safety to prevent accidental discharge if the user's hand slips off the bolt charging knob. To disable this feature: remove the slotted screw that holds the knob on, flip the cover over and detach the spring, remove the ratchet pawl and reassemble.

Modifying the trigger assembly: To modify the trigger assembly, you will need to acquire two parts - a US made semi-auto sear r compliance part and a selector stop plate. If the two grip panels are still attached, remove the two screws to detach them. Remove the takedown pin. Release the sear by pulling the trigger while depressing the grip safety.

With the sear standing up in the housing, use a flat screw driver to disengage the two spring legs which are recessed in two small holes. On the right side of the receiver, the pin which holds the sear looks like it is a screw.

The slot is provided to rotate the pin with a screw driver into the position which allows the grip safety bar to pass for the sear pin and both the grip safety bar and the safety selector bar to pass for the trigger pin. It uses the grip safety bar to retain the pin - when you removed the takedown pin it gives the grip safety some space to move to the rear, which disengages the pin retention.

Push the pin out from right to left. This will free the sear, which you can just lift out. Note the orientation of the spring - remove the spring, and then attach it to the semi-auto sear in the same orientation putting the two legs back in the holes.

For this next step it is very helpful to have a screw driver with a little notch cut in the tip. Use a screw driver to push the trigger spring legs down and outward to disengage them from the hooks.

The spring legs will rest against the magazine well when they are disengaged. In order to remove the pin - which is easiest from left to right - you will need to push the grip safety all the way back. The trigger will still be under a little spring pressure.

Remove the trigger and disconnector assembly. The grip safety lever will now just lift straight out of the housing. In order to weld the selector stop plate in, you will need to remove the coating in the area of the weld as well as whatever location you choose to attach to the ground clamp. My tendency here would be to bead blast the whole thing and then apply a new coating - I do have an affinity for Cerakote.

You could more easily just sand an area on the grip where it will be concealed by the grip panels and not bother. You will need to clamp the stop plate and move the safety to the 'safe' position to get it out of the way. Apply a single puddle in the central hole in the stop plate. Once you are confident you have a good weld, use a Dremmel with a grinding wheel or a detailing file sander to flatten the bead allowing clearance for the sear.

Reassemble the trigger group with the semi-auto sear 1 below. At this point you will have completed the better part of the semi-auto conversion. We will not be using the SMG bolt, but we must remove some parts from it.

We will need to remove the recoil spring and guide rod. The pad on the end of the spring will need to be removed. Use a pair of tin snips or wire cutters to cut it from the closest end and then pull it off with pliers 2 below. Remove the extractor retainer pin and push the extractor out through the back of the bolt 3 below.

Technically the full-auto extractor is slightly different from the semi-auto version, but many people find success just reusing it as-is. It is possible to modify a full-auto bolt into the configuration required to use it in a closed-bolt semi-auto Uzi - it is, however, exceedingly difficult. Then a precise hole must be drilled from the back of the bolt emerging in the position that the fixed firing pin was in.

Additionally, a slot must be milled into the bolt to accommodate the receiver blocking bar. The base of the left side of the bolt must then be removed through milling to accommodate the striker bar and an area must be built up via metal deposition and then machined to the correct shape - after which the bolt must be re-hardened.

This is also another r compliance part since it is US made. You will use the spring and guide rod you removed and modified above, and the extractor and extractor retainer pin. The semi-auto bolt components are shown below. The SA bolt assembly is shown above. The only difference I am aware of between the two is the B model has a small spring loaded latch that will prevent the striker bar driven firing pin from engaging the primer of a partially chambered round if the bolt is not fully in battery Out-Of-Battery - OOB.

Out of battery firing is possible in the A model. This occurs if the bolt is almost closed, but not completely, yet the firing pin can still strike the primer. If this situation occurs and you don't notice the bolt slightly out of place, when you pull the trigger the cartridge casing may burst because there is insufficient chamber surface surrounding it to contain it.

It isn't likely to be life threatening, although I am sure one could sustain a serious eye injury. Mostly it just damages the top cover, causes some lacerations, and generally scares the bejesus out of you. The B version of the bolt adds a small safety device which blocks the striker from travelling forward sufficiently to strike and detonate the primer. It shares the same pin as the extractor and rides up on the back of the ejector mounted in the receiver.

When the bolt closes fully, it pivots out of the way so the striker may engage. As the result of this, there is a difference between the A and B model ejector - a difference which is not always acknowledged when trying to buy this part online. I witnessed a situation in which the striker was blocked whether the bolt was in battery or not because the ejector was not quite large enough to engage the safety fully - it was literally just a few thousandths too small.

This was resolved by locating an SMG receiver stub that still had the ejector attached and using that in place of the aftermarket one.

You will need to purchase the following parts:. You will also need a You should also purchase a set of US made handguards that would bring you to four r parts: bolt, sear, barrel, and handguard - it is illegal to build an Uzi with less than 4 US made parts.

It is possible to align and hold the parts in place without it, it is just somewhat more difficult. We need to remove the rear flip sight and top cover latch from the rear receiver stub in your parts kit.

The sight is attached with a screw and small nut - be careful with the nut, it is tiny and only has a few turns before it falls away. Once the nut is removed, the screw must continue to be turned as the far side of the rear sight base is threaded - once it is free you can use a punch to push the screw out sufficiently to grab it with some pliers.

Pry the spring upward while slightly depressing the top cover latch - be a little cautious as the latch spring will fly out if it slips over the rear lip. Slide the top cover latch forward and remove the spring. Put all these in a bag for later. Clean-up blocking bar spatter: If you bought the receiver from the list above, then it already has the FA bolt blocking bar aka: SA bolt "guide rail" welded in.

The maker of the flat often leaves metal deposited on the inside of the receiver which prevents the smooth function of the bolt. Check that the bolt slides smoothly into the receiver and over the blocking bar - if it doesn't spend some time cleaning it up with a file or, better yet, a detailing file sander I can't recommend this enough, the little narrow belt sanders make life so much easier when cleaning up not only this weld but all of your own to come.

You can use the bolt itself as a guide to ensure it is positioned correctly - be careful to not have the bolt directly behind the area you are welding it would be a very painful moment if you weld the bolt to the receiver. Clean up the front trunnion stub: This can be somewhat tricky as each of these is cut in some random fashion - the more they leave you the better. The first thing you need to figure out is how long it must be to match the specification.

On the drawing below click image to zoom , you will notice that the distance between front and rear sight towers - that is, the length required for the top cover to be correctly secured - is You will start by trying to determine how much material will need to be removed from the front trunnion stub in order to achieve that length. Now you must carefully look at the geometry of the part. There is a small open rectangular notch on the front-bottom of the receiver repair section.

If not, either fill the notch by welding in another piece of material such as a piece you may be able to harvest from the unused rear stub or simply leave it open. If your weld is otherwise strong, this area will be covered by the handguard.

Make the initial cut in the stub when you have made these calculations. After that will be much filing, sanding and grinding to get the best possible fit while keeping the part square. You can test fit as you go by checking the top cover fit - remembering that you need a little extra in the rear to clear the spring loaded latch.

We are trying to get to something that looks like the image to the right above. On the receiver repair section the cutout for the feed ramp is scored on the underside.

The best way to remove the tab is probably with a Dremmel tool. You will find the that after cutting it out the feed ramp won't slide in easily so you will need to bevel the area a little to allow it to fully seat. The back edge of the fed ramp should align exactly with the front edge of the magazine well opening.

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